Skin icing, slugging, micro-needling, DIY face masks, Gua Sha massage, and most recently, skin cycling have become some of the most debated TikTok skincare trends. If you’re a skincare nerd, you’ve probably seen and researched these trends, but haven’t necessarily tried them – or at least not before you discussed them with your dermatologist. That certainly is the right thing to do, as their negative secondary effects could be greater than their advantages.
Skin icing, for example, can cause a major temperature change, which may cause redness and stinging. Slugging, if done incorrectly, can cause further breakouts and clogged pores. Microneedling can lead to allergic reactions and irritations, as well as rashes from the needles. Skin cycling, however, seems to be the very first TikTok trend that’s actually approved (by many) dermatologists.
On TikTok, #skincycling is associated with 185.6M views, and overall, posts that mention skin cycling have garnered 3.5B views on the social media platform. Clearly, skin cycling is popular. But what is it, exactly – and can you really jump onto this trend safely?
Skin Cycling – What’s Up With TikTok’s Most Legit Skincare Trend?
Put simply, skin cycling is essentially a four-day skincare 'cycle' where acid is introduced on the first night, retinol on the second, and gentle ingredients that allow your skin to rest on the third and fourth days.
The idea is that adopting a skin cycling routine can help prevent the skin barrier from being compromised due to overuse of active ingredients – plus, it’s a great way to create a consistent and effective routine that helps the skin work optimally.
How To Create A Skin Cycling Routine
The New York-based dermatologist behind the concept is Dr. Whitney Bowe, who shared her vision for the ultimate skin cycling routine on TikTok. According to her explanations, here’s what a skin cycling routine should unfold like.
- EXFOLIATE -> 2) RETINOL -> 3) REST DAY
Night one – exfoliation
“You want to cleanse [the skin], pat dry, then put on an exfoliating product,” explains Dr. Bowes, who recommends using a leave-on product over something that’s wash-off, like a cleanser.
She recommends you seek out chemical exfoliators, which contain ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, instead of physical scrubs because they’re better for the skin barrier and more effective.
Our exfoliator recommendations: You can either use a toner, such as NUORI's Gentle Glow Tonic – which is the most gentle, as the name suggests. Alternatively, you can go ahead and use an exfoliating serum such as Holifrog’s Halo AHA + BHA Evening Serum or Oskia’s Liquid Mask. Plus, there's always the option of using a strong acid mask, such as Holifrog’s Kosi Multi Acid Mask.
Night two – retinoid
“You wanna cleanse, then you wanna pat dry [your skin]. You don’t want damp skin on the retinoid night – that drives irritation,” continues Dr. Bowes. On day two, make sure you apply a retinoid right after cleansing.
If you’re new to retinoids and skin cycling in general, begin by applying a hydrating cream to the sensitive areas of the face – under the eyes, around the corners of the nose, and on the marionette lines – to act as a buffer and prevent dryness and irritation.
Then, apply your retinoid over the whole face, down the neck, and across the décolletage. More so, if you are a newbie to the retinol game, we suggest you use a cushioning, occlusive balm on top, such as Odacité’s Le Blue Balm or Furtuna Skin’s Replenishing Balm. It’s essential that you sandwich your retinol between a hydrating cream and a balm.
Our hydrating cream recommendation: Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Face Cream will keep your skin hydrated and firm throughout the day. When used at night, it acts as an intensive regeneration treatment, so you awaken to healthy-looking and refreshed skin 24/7. Its lightweight texture quickly absorbs into the skin to give your complexion a radiant glow. Alternatively, you can also give a go to Holifrog’s Grand Amino Cushion Cream – which is a concentrated form of peptides, ceramides, vitamins, and a mixture of 11 amino acids, similar to a multi-vitamin for your skin.
Our retinoid-based product recommendation: Augustinus Bader's Retinol Serum, is a groundbreaking skincare solution that targets deep lines, wrinkles, blemishes, and pigmentation.
This lightweight, hydrating serum is designed for all skin types, including sensitive and oily, and is formulated with a carefully calibrated 0.06% concentration of pure retinol.
Developed by world-renowned stem cell researcher Professor Augustinus Bader, the Retinol Serum harnesses the power of TFC8® technology to deliver optimal benefits without irritation or dryness.
The Retinol Serum boasts a potent blend of high-quality ingredients that work together to deliver visible results.
Pure retinol accelerates cellular turnover, reducing the appearance of blemishes, acne scarring, fine lines, and wrinkles while regulating oily skin and improving tone and texture.
If you prefer to skin cycle without retinol, feel free to introduce all sorts of vitamins and acids, as the risk of irritation or interference among ingredients is reduced.
A retinoid-free skin cyclin routine, however, looks different from the retinol-based one – you’ll have two days of using active ingredients, and one rest day only.
Our retinoid-free product recommendation: You can opt for separate serums, or you can use Vintner's Daughter Active Treatment Essence, which is a hybrid between a toner and a serum, containing all the active ingredients your skin might crave. The treatment is a deeply hydrating formula that delivers radiance and renewal to all skin. With 70+ water-soluble nutrients and plant actives, including stabilized vitamin C, B vitamins, micro, and mini hyaluronic acid, probiotics, micro-exfoliators, plant stem cells, microalgae, and superfoods, Active Treatment Essence offers multifaceted performance and supports the efficacy of subsequent products. It can replace your acid exfoliator, toner, hydrating serum, and serum treatments (in case of acne and hyperpigmentation).
Night three and four – repair and recovery
On these days, you should look after the skin barrier and ensure the skin is adequately hydrated. Dr. Bowes recommends cleansing, leaving the skin damp, and then applying a serum that contains ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and/or niacinamide.
Follow with a moisturizer: “Choose a formula that’s really nourishing which will support the skin barrier,” says Dr. Bowes. “If the skin is really dry, apply rosehip or squalane oil onto the cheeks.”
Our cleansing recommendation: Holifrog’s Tashmoo Water Lily Milky Wash is the best choice if you have sensitive skin that's prone to dryness and/or inflammation, but you still want the refreshing sensation of a gel cleanser. It has a pH of 5 and the skin's optimal pH is anywhere between 4.7-5.75. Soothing, non-fragrant botanical ingredients remove makeup and other impurities, while aquatic plant extracts hydrate the skin without leaving a greasy residue behind.
Our serum recommendation: Your recovery day options could be as follows: 1) Venn’s Probiotics Cica Complex Biome Booster – which calms and moisturizes sensitive, stressed skin and defends it against dryness, 2) Oskia’s Isotonic Hydra-Serum – which infuses instant and long-term moisture to quench thirsty skin.
A Note On Frequency – How Often Should You Be Following A Skin Cycling Routine?
Dr. Bowe encourages you to repeat and modify your skin-cycle regime over time, depending on how your skin responds to the ‘active’ ingredients you are applying.
Consistency is more important than frequency.
After all, products are much more effective when used regularly, even if you’re not using them daily.
But it still is essential that you keep in mind what your skin type is at all times.
Here’s How To Do Skin Cycling for Your Skin Type
Skin cycling has been growing as a trend so quickly particularly because Dr. Bowe has been promoting the idea that “everyone can do skin cycling, no matter their skin type or knowledge of skincare.”
Therefore:
- If you're establishing a routine, this method is a great starting point to help you understand how products affect your skin.
- If you're a skincare veteran but feel like your old routine isn't giving you the best results, you might want to discover how the skin cycling technique can improve your outcome.
If You Have Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
While skin cycling only requires exfoliating once a night, oily and acne-prone skin types can be the exception to the rule, says Bowe. "If you use an exfoliating product every day without irritation, then you might be someone who has oily, acne-prone skin," she says. Thus, Bowe recommends a leave-on exfoliant that contains glycolic acid – such as Holifrog’s Halo AHA + BHA Evening Serum.
If You Have Dry and Mature Skin
Instead of two days of recovery, dry skin types might need more recovery days than oily types. Be cautious of ingredients that might over-strip the skin, as this skin type requires products with lower concentrations of retinoids or chemical exfoliants. If you find that even low levels of these ingredients are too harsh, you should go for niacinamide (Dr. Barbara Sturm’s The Better B) and vitamin C (Holifrog’s Sunnyside C Glow Serum) as alternatives.
Is All The Skin Cycling Hype Really Worth It? Here Are Some of Its Advantages
1) Skin Cycling Can Help Repair Your Skin Barrier
The importance of the skin barrier cannot be overemphasized.
According to a review published in January 2018 in the Indian Journal of Medical Research, the skin barrier is important to human life. To name a few of its key functions, it protects from external threats such as infectious agents, chemicals, systemic toxicity, and allergens. Internally, the skin helps to maintain homeostasis and protects from enhanced loss of water from the body.
“Recovery nights, which focus on nourishing the skin barrier, have been a game changer for so many of my patients,” says Bowe.
It’s safe to say that a compromised skin barrier can play a role in symptoms of a range of skin conditions, from acne to eczema, or atopic dermatitis. Over-exfoliating and using powerful retinoids may harm this barrier (leading to redness and irritation), but that’s where the rest days included in a skin cycling routine come in handy.
2) Skin Cycling Can Help Protect Skin Against Seasonal Issues
“Recovery nights become especially beneficial in fall as the air becomes increasingly dry and cool,” says Bowe. Cold, windy, and dry climates can cause dry skin and worsen certain skin conditions such as eczema.
Skin cycling may help prevent your skin from getting dry in the first place so that your skin can potentially handle the elements better.
3) Skin Cycling May Reduce Negative Product Side Effects
Cycling your products allows you to reap the benefits of intense (and often pricey) ingredients and treatments while reducing the chance of inviting irritating side effects.
However, she adds: “Exfoliating serums and retinoids are powerful, highly effective products that I use in my skincare routine and recommend to my patients,” Dr. Bowe explains. “But, they can be very irritating for many people if used too frequently.”
Essentially, applying too much too often can lead to sensitive, tight, or dry skin, she explains; people with darker skin tones, in particular, have a higher risk of hyperpigmentation when overusing these products.
Could There Be Any Disadvantages To Using Skin Cycling?
1) Experiencing Sensitivity and Irritation
If you’re not already using a retinoid, you could experience some side effects when you start. Retin-A and retinol are two common ingredients that cause purging, dryness, irritation, and even inflammation when you begin using them.
Per the Cleveland Clinic, retinol may make you more prone to sunburn, making sunscreen even more essential than usual. These side effects usually lessen as your skin adjusts to the ingredient.
In order to help it adjust, Dr. Bowe recommends:
- Using your moisturizer first to buffer against the potential effect of retinoids, especially in sensitive areas like around the eyes and the corners of the nose, mouth, and neck.
- Increase the number of your recovery nights.
Basically, it’s crucial to listen to your skin. If it’s inflamed, rough, and itchy, it’s probably time to give it a break and go back to the basics: gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF.
2) The Cycle Shortens As Your Skin Becomes Tolerant
Skin cycling may not be right for people who want big results, as the cycle shortens as your skin becomes tolerant. There are a lot of people for whom one to two nights of a product per week is not enough to see results – especially if they’re dealing with acne-prone skin, for example.
Products are much more effective when used regularly (for example, on a cycle) than when used sporadically. Bowe acknowledges that if people are able to get their skin adjusted to a stable and powerful retinoid (and don’t have irritation, blotchy patches, or sensitivity), skin cycling won’t offer many additional benefits.
3) Check In With Your Dermatologist
Your doctor will be able to personalize the skin cycling regimen to best suit your complexion.
People with certain skin conditions — including severe acne, rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis — and people who use prescription medications for their skin should always check in with their dermatologist before trying out a new routine.
Do All Dermatologists Approve of Skin Cycling?
Many dermatologists agree that skin cycling is a good archetype to work from because it can be adapted for different skin types, ages, lifestyles, and budgets. At its core, the rotation and balancing of active ingredients and moisturizer help keep the skin barrier intact. Also, anything that promotes skin care in moderation is a good thing.
The best thing about it is – according to most dermatologists – that almost everyone can skin cycle, even those who have never used a retinoid. Routines are easy to modify for sensitive skin (add a third recovery night) or those who are pregnant or breastfeeding (swap the retinoid for bakuchiol, peptides, or another alternative with similar effects to a retinoid).
However, not all dermatologists are completely sold – just yet.
In an interview for The New York Times, Dr. Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Mass, said:
“The best thing you can do to protect your skin barrier is not destroy it in the first place.” – Dr. Ranella Hirsch
She supports anything that promotes skin care in moderation but has a more conservative stance on active ingredients – and so might your dermatologist. Therefore, before you decide to jump on the skin cycling trend, make sure you take it up with your doctor, as they will know what’s best for your skin.
As Dr. Shereene Idriss puts it herself, there are situations where the excessive rotation of formulas and active ingredients can prevent you from discovering the real benefits of constant use.
“Your skin is not a trend. Your skin is uniquely inherently yours and it doesn’t care what the trends are, so do not have FOMOs if you’re missing out on skincare if you don’t think you can tolerate something. And – write this down – everything great was once new, but not everything new is great.” – Dr. Shereene Idriss
Especially when it comes to your skincare routine, make sure you take every up-and-coming new trend with a grain of salt.
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